Each Chef Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.

Justin Gomez
Justin Gomez

Elena Voss is a personal development coach and blogger focused on empowering individuals to achieve their goals.